(2023) Made from 100% Syrah, Fattoria Le Pupille being one of the pioneers of Syrah in Tuscany. From chalky clay soils, and a small proportion made in older oak, a few hours skin contact gives a very pale colour. The nose has a subtle smoky mineral quality, along with small, dry red fruits like cranberry and reducurrant. In the mouth this has substantial texture and fruit density. It's a rosé that doesn't want to be served too cold, a nip of tannin and some skin contact grip and pithy acidity giving it gastronomic appeal.
(2023) An organic Grenache wine, handsomely packaged with vinolock glass stopper, from a property in the Minervois region of the Languedoc. Pale salmon pink, the nose has strawberry bob-bons, dusted with icing sugar, and a pert feeling of freshness. In the mouth rounded with creamy fruits, and a hint of sweetness that I might guess as a mere touch of residual sugar. Acidity is good, giving this balance and meaning the finish is dry and citrus fresh. Stylish.
(2023) This is a distinctive and lovely Côtes de Provence rosé, a certified organic blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Perhaps here the Cabernet is the secret weapon, but the wine exhibits such bold ginger spice and pepper, as well as copious fruit. From a family-owned vineyard that once provided the fruit for Domaine Ott's Coeur de Grains cuvée, the palate too bursts with tangy and expressive fruit, a smoky pepperiness persisting into a beautifully balanced finish.
(2023) From the superb Rioja house of Rioja Alta, an Albariño from their own vineyards in the O Rosal sub-zone, with around 20% from Salnes. It is a careful selection of the best fruit that is real punch and vibrancy, the nose exotic with floral, mango and lychee notes in a very perfumed style showing nectarine fruit too. In the mouth it has texture and that combination of quite luscious fruit verging on the tropical, with swaggering acidity to keep the whole picture balance with a salty hint of freshness in the finish.
(2019) Around 19% Verdelho, from Swartland, and Chenin from Swartland old vines with a little from Bot River. Natural yeast and very little intervention. Older oak, large barrels. Very little oak influence, just a touch of almondy undertone. Nice spices here, touches of ash and tobacco, touches of clove and wheat beer. Lovely pure, light and fresh lemon and lime fruit. There is lovely sweetness here, like the juiciest orange or lime, into a long, lightly spicy finish.
(2019) From Paarl vineyards on the Swartland border. A more creamy, slightly more plush character, though that is from the vineyard and lees, as there’s no oak influence here. There is such lovely sweet sweet, ripe apple and pear, but like the Chenin/Verdelho, there is such freshness, running mountain stream clarity to the acid and mouthfeel. Plenty of spice, herby characters and a touch of tensioning tannin.
(2018) One of the most delicious grower Champagnes I've had recently, this blend of wines from 2012 and 2011 is, quite unusually, dominated by 50% Pinot Meunier, along with 40% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay. The modest dosage of 8g/l gives enough crowd-pleasing softness, while it retains plenty of agility and vigour. Forward, fruity and welcoming on the nose there's a basket of peaches and pears, and background nuttiness. It fills the mouth with buoyant, joyful fruit, walking a lovely line between easy-going drinkability and a bit of real precision.
(2017) From La Rioja Alta's bodega in Alavesa, a fabulous Rioja Reserva that is plush and modern in style, driven by a welterweight of black fruit against creamy, indulgent oak. It is Tempranillo with just 5% Mazuelo, aged in French and Caucasian oak barrels for 18 months. Though Sandalwood and clove, and all sorts of exotic spice join the deep pool of black fruit, there's a firm cherry juiciness to the acidity here, and very fine, elegant tannins that give it lovely length. A supremely refined modern Rioja. Note it's big brother, the Martelo Reserva 2012 is just fabulous, but at almost twice the price. Watch the video for details and food-matching suggestions.
(2016) Less striking aromatically, more subdued, with a taut orchard fruit and salt nose, but clean and lean. A real Chablis purists Chablis, all about scything clean fruit, so precise and long, a sweep of apple, citrus and salt into a long finish, but staying so focused and tightly wound.
(2015) Giacosa Along with Barolo, Barbaresco is the other 'great' wine of Piedmont, and this is a typically fresh and vital interpretation from Giacosa. Lots of cherry and bold floral and juicy red fruits, a wisp of smoke and hints of exotic incense, the nose is velvety but hugely fresh. On the palate such a gorgeous concentration without extraction. Its dry tannin structure suggests great youth and great potential, but the length and precision has chocolate and ripe plum lushness too. A 20-year wine potentially normally sold only in cases of six, and on allocation.